How to apply foundation
Let’s break it down to basics.
Foundation is used to help create even complexion and cover skin concerns. Foundation comes in a variety of formulas that when applied to the skin it should be seamless and looks like skin. It is also used to alter skin tone/colour.
If you have problem areas that need coverage. Don’t go doing the “Band-Aid theory” meaning thick/heavy coverage FAST. This method should only be used when you seriously have no time and I’m talking less than 10 min to do a full face of makeup.
The outcome of how you apply foundation in particular is that you want people to notice that your skin looks fantastic and fresh, NOT the makeup itself. If you have achieved this then you are on the right track to the art of makeup. *H5!
I always apply the base first before anything else. You want a really good even complexion to work with to see everything come together with minimal effort.
So let’s rewind and try doing the opposite of what you may have been doing currently. LESS IS MORE. Build it up slowly. I CHALLENGE you all to apply “As sheer as possible as long as you get the necessary coverage” – Donna Mee That phrase has stuck to me like superglue and is my bible.
When choosing the right foundation colour, you need to find out what your undertone is and always swatch the foundation colour close to your jaw line and try matching it to your chest area (You want about a fingers width to swatch not just a teeny tiny dots all over the face). Or you may need to SPLIT the difference if you have issues of fake/dark tan or 2 very different colour complexion from your chest compared to your face. When it comes to other skin concerns; such as pigmentation, rosacea, freckles, etc. This is considered as surface tone. So we are not trying to match that, it’s your undertone you are after or as close to it as possible. So are you warm? (Olive, Yellow or Golden); the only time when your more pink (Cool) is because your surface tone is the most prominent such as Rosacea. If you’re grey then you better go see a doctor as this cries out for some health issues or you’re turning into a walking zombie!
Start by choosing 3 shades that you think you are. Look into the mirror (Try having as much natural or bright cool lighting to see more clearly. Don’t go into dim bathroom/yellow/warm light as you will appear a different colour when you’re out in sunlight, etc) you will see which foundation disappears into your skin and is the right one for you. The more natural /bright light it is, the better to colour match.
A tip which may sound more expensive but is actually better in the long run is buying a lighter and darker shade and mix it yourself, that way you can really use it all year round no matter how light or dark you get in each season; as you can adjust the lightness to darkness ratio no matter what day it is.
Another tip: If you already have a foundation that is a bit too light for you. Warm it up with a matte bronzer if you need a little boost in colour without actually having to tan!
Now to the actual application. I know you see a lot of “YouTube guru’s” putting dots all over their face and blend, blend, blend, buff, buff, buff. I’m not saying that you can’t do it that way or it’s wrong; but if you want to do it efficiently and effectively with as little effort and product wasting, then keep reading below for an alternative.
APPLICATION:
Treat your face like a delicate shrine. Be gentle and kind to your skin.
After you have corrected and concealed, take your foundation of choice and start from the centre of your face working outwards. You only need one to two pumps at max, maybe three if you have a larger surface area to work with. So let’s always start with ONE pump and work from there.
Foundation always works best with your fingers as the warmth of your touch warms the product and it disburses into your skin so much better than the gimmick foundation brush; and it uses way less/wasted product. I’ll give you an example. Have you ever seen morticians use different foundation products compared to say your everyday drug store or high end foundation on a corpse? If you haven’t, go and ask them and you will find out it’s basically because the corpse is stone cold. There is no warmth in the skin to activate the ingredients to stick to the skin. It’s not to say that they don’t put on normal foundation on corpses, it does happen; it’s not impossible but there are other special ingredients just for them to make it work even better and that is one of the main reasons. So as long as you wash your hands before you start, there shouldn’t be any issues using your own fingers as a makeup application tool and they’re free! didn’t cost you a cent!
When you apply foundation generally speaking, you will have more product placed from the nose/cheek area first. Work the foundation outwards until it thins out to basically nothing into the hairline/neck. Each person will need different amount of coverage to the next, depending on skin concerns/preferences. One might only need concealer on certain spots and they’re done! Maybe just a tinted moisturiser as they have great skin and just need to be evened a little; whilst others may need more coverage for other skin concerns.
Always apply one THIN layer to your skin. When you finished, take a step back and have a good look at yourself. If you don’t feel it and need another layer. Then go ahead and apply another thin layer ONLY to the areas YOU NEED, You do not have to go over the whole face again.
Building on foundation is always better than going way overboard. You can also use a disposable makeup sponge to help tap/blend/remove excess foundation.
If you find that the extra layer you did was too much, a solution to fixing the mistake instead of continuing your dramatic look that you didn’t want or washing it all off starting again, is to get a disposable makeup sponge and apply a small amount of moisturiser to the sponge and then work your way in light stroking motions. Don’t go heavy handed as it will rub all the hard work off. Only try and take off the excess.
Once you are happy with your application. Apply a loose powder or pressed powder to set with a powder puff; make sure you press and roll, not slap your face a hundred times like you’re ready to murder someone.
If you are using a powder brush, very lightly tap/sweep on the face, DO NOT rub it in, we are not in kindergarten class colouring in. Just a nice light gentle application. If your heavy handed it will look cakey/dry/cracked if you do it this way. Everyone is generally more shiner in the T-zone which is around the forehead/nose and cheek area. So those areas are most likely where you will need a little bit more powder than the rest of the face.
If you love the dewy look more, like myself. Then you probably can skip the powder all together!
And Voila! You are done
Want a bit more insight to cater for your own personal application? Want to know more about undertones and surface tones? Tricks on actually using the disposable sponge? Yep there is actually a reason as to why the sponges are designed the way they are!
Get in touch for a personal one on one session.